7/9/04 ~ 7/11/04

Climbers: Matt, Leonard, Priscilla, Wes, Darren and me

Friday afternoon: we hiked over Long Pass and camped besides the Turnpike Creek. 

Saturday

6:30 am: left camp (4800 ft). 

10:30 am: Got up to the base of climbing route (8200 ft) and started climbing.

2:30 pm: Climbed three pitches.  The route was zigzagging with rope-drag problem.  The rock was very loose and broken with insecure hand-holds.  We opted to climb in mountain boot for its warmth since it was surprisingly cold up there, which turned out not to be a good choice since boots tended to dislodge loose rock more than rock-shoes.  The second pitch has a very interesting chimney section.  When we got to the last pitch below the summit, we decided to retreat because of route-finding difficulty and time was running out while weather was approaching. 

4:30 pm: Got back to the base of climb and started descent.  (The descent was the most horrible part of the whole climb. Hard on the knees and leg muscle!)

7:30 pm: Got back to the camp (finally...)

Sunday: 6:30am - 9:00am Hiked over long pass and got back to car.

Stuart Range seen from Long Pass

Darren

Coordinated river-crossing

Saturday

	The grueling approach includes steep slope, bush-wacking and boulder field.

Sherpa peak in view

Ascending the boulder field

West Ridge of Sherpa looming over the skyline

	Matt

Stuart-Sherpa col seen from the base of climb

Wes standing at the base of the first pitch

Darren searching the base of the last pitch to the summit

From the vague route description, we couldn't figure out the if the last pitch was on this wall, or ...

on this wall ... (The balance rock was incredible.)

Rapped back to the base of climb.  Line of North ridge of Mt. Stuart in view.  Clouds are moving in at this time.  We saw parties on Stuart starting to retreat.  Right after we left there, the top of the mountain was engulfed in dark clouds.

The South Side of Enchantment basin

Sunday

Hiking over the Long Pass

Leonard and Priscilla on the top of the Long Pass.  Finally it will be all down-hill from here on.

The morning was exceptionally fresh, cool, and ... very chilly.  Can see Mt. Rainier clearly in the distance.  Fantasying about how it feels like to be on that mountain...

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